Lapis Lazuli is a beautiful stone for a distinctive signet ring. Lapis is a softer stone and needs to be protected from damage. Gareth designs his signet rings to have a raised bezel to protect the edge of the stone.
Other jewelers raise the stone above the gold to make it easier too carve. This leaves the stone very vulnerable to breakage. Gareth has replaced many ring stones that were broken because of this design flaw. Family crests carved in Lapis Lazuli must be polished. This two stage process makes them a premium option.
Custom cameo portrait ring made by Gareth at Portrait Cameos. Hand carved with the portrait of a man in Lapis Lazuli. The photograph is of a renowned explorer and grandfather of the customer. Set in a gold ring with Lapis lazuli inlaid panels on the shoulders. These are protected and enhanced by gold Acanthus leaf details pinned onto the sides.
Lapis Celtic Knot Gem Carving Front
Hand carved with a Celtic triangular knot on a curved surface.
Lapis Celtic Knot Gem Carving Back
Triangular Celtic knot carved onto a flat surface.
Angelfish Silver Necklace carved in Lapis Lazuli.
Carved on both the front and the back to make an unusual gift.
Carving lapis Lazuli is a difficult, advanced process. A stable stone, free from cracks and with a solid structure is required for a good carving. Lapis Lazuli is a soft stone and does not like heat or pressure.
The carver has to have a light and delicate touch to avoid damage. Carvings in Lapis must be polished. This makes carving Lapis a long process and great experience is needed to create the best results.
Ask Gareth Eckley to hand carve an eagle, lion, wolf, animal, totem or any design into Lapis for you.
Lapis Lazuli Cameo Bracelet
Victorian Jewel carved set with 5 Cameos carved into Lapis Lazuli
Lapis Lazuli Cameos
Close up to show the superb finish of the high relief cameos.
Reverse of the Lapis Lazuli Bracelet
The Lapis cameos set in 18kt Gold with Barrel shaped Lapis beads.
Antique Lapis Lazuli Cameo
This 500 year old cameo is carved with the portrait of Cosimo De Medici, Duke of Florence and Grand Duke of Tuscany.
Victorian Lapis Ring
High relief Cameo in Lapis Lazuli, set in Gold with blue enamel and Diamond.
Lapis Cameo Ring
Gold ring with Lapis cameo, with blue enamel and Diamonds.
Lady Diana Gibson-Watt asked me to create a jewelry suite from some of her collection of Lapis lazuli gemstones and natural pearls.
Diana had toured the middle east in the 1950s. She visited Jordan, Israel, Iraq, and Afghanistan where she bought her Lapis.
I designed a pendant with a pearl enhancer in 18kt yellow gold to fit over the pearl necklace.
The central Lapis is encircled by fully drilled pearls on gold pegs with gold spacers in between. The drop earrings match the pendant.
Click the button for more examples of jewelry that I designed for Lady Gibson Watt.
How to look after your Lapis Jewelry, cleaning and care
Lapis is relatively soft, softer than glass. For a ring, look for a setting where the gold rises above the edge of the Lapis to protect the edge from damage. Remove your ring if doing rough work, such as landscaping, gardening, rock climbing. Place it on a leather or metal necklace tucked under a shirt.
Smooth Lapis can be wiped with a cloth. Family crests with engraved and carved details may need to be cleaned by soaking in soap solution and brushing with a toothbrush. Keep Lapis dry as water can affect the yellow pyrites. Prolonged exposure to strong sunlight may cause fading over a long period of time. I have not seen this with my customer's Lapis jewelry, but it is a possibility.
Caution jewelers that the ultrasonic or steam cleaner may cause damage to the stone, especially if the solution is a harsh one. Lapis must never be placed in acid pickle, used by jewelers to clean gold after soldering. Most jewelers know this but point this out to your jeweler.
When a ring is resized larger or smaller, pressure can be exerted onto the stone. This may cause the stone to crack. Make your jeweler sign an affadavit that if the stone is broken they will pay for a replacement of the same quality.
Lapis Lazuli Gem Quality
Perfect gem quality Lapis Lazuli has a deep saturated blue color. No white calcite, only a small amount of yellow pyrites and no veins or bands. Price guide - from $70 to $1000 per gram, $1750 - $25000 per oz.
Top AAA Grade Lapis Lazuli
Deep blue saturated color, more pyrites is allowed, some white calcite areas, veins, and bands need to be subtle. Smaller stones can be cut from this example that is free of imperfections. Price guide - from $5 - $50 per gram, $125 - $1250 per oz.
Lapis Lazuli - AA Grade
Good Deep blue color. More yellow pyrites, larger amounts of white calcite, banding, and veins. Price guide - From 25 cents per gram to $2.50 per gram, $7 - $65 per oz.
Lapis Lazuli AA Grade Polished
A Polished cushion of Lapis Lazuli. A well-saturated deep blue color. This is AA grade due to the white areas.
Lapis Lazuli A Grade
Paler blue color, not as saturated. Large areas of white Calcite, gray Hauynite and large areas of Pyrites. Large banding and veins of white. Price Guide 10 - 20 cents per gram, $2 - $5 per gram.
What is Lapis Lazuli ?
The beautiful, blue stone called Lapis Lazuli has been used in jewelry since ancient times. Lapis was a favorite of the Ancient Egyptians. It was inlaid into the Tutenkamun death mask, his sarcophagus and other ancient jewels.
Lapis is named after the Persian word 'Lazhward' for blue. The deep ultramarine blue color of the finest Lapis is highly prized and owes it's color to the mineral Lazurite. This is sometimes found as a single crystal as in this example here.
Lapis forms as a result of metamorphic action on limestone though contact with molten granite which creates crystalline marble and new minerals including Lapis.
The intensity and saturation of the finest Lapis comes from the amount of Lazurite in the rock and from the quantity and position of Sulphur radical anons in the crystal lattice. This varies with location and even within a single rock.
Lapis Lazuli that is perfectly saturated with the most intense blue color is very rare and expensive.
The minerals that together make up Lapis Lazuli are Lazurite, Hauynite, Noselite, Sodalite, Calcite, Diopside and Iron Pyrites. The golden color of Iron Pyrites accent the deep blue to great effect. The highest quality Lapis Lazuli has a greater concentration of Lazurite and less Calcite.
Where is Lapis Lazuli Found ?
Afghanistan - Persian Lapis
Afghanistan - Persian LapisThe finest Lapis Lazuli has always been found in Afghanistan. The mines of the Badakshan region, near the Russian border, have been mined for 6000 years. The traveler Marco Polo visited them in 1271. These mines were the source of Ancient Egypts' Lapis and are still used to this day.
The mines are extremely remote, at a height of 11,000 - 16,000 feet. It is difficult to get heavy machinery to them and pack animals are still used to carry the Lapis Lazuli to markets in Kabul, Afghanistan or North Pakistan.
Russia - Siberian Lapis
Found near lake Baikal, and Bokhara in Turkestan. Gem quality or AAA grade Lapis is seldom found in Russia. The blue is less intense and there is more white Calcite and banding of the rock. This material is often used for ornamental purposes and seldom for jewelry.
Chile - Chilean Lapis
This Lapis is dominated by white Calcite with only lesser amounts of the blue Lazurite. The blue color is less intense than Afghan sourced Lapis. This is often dyed to appear darker and used for bead necklaces and inexpensive jewelry. Found in the Andes of Ovalle, Coquimbo.
Lapis Lazuli Hens Egg by Faberge
Lapis lazuli Hen Faberge Egg (1886) given to Alexander III to Czarina Maria Fyodorovna. Opens to reveal a secret surprise jewel inside. One of the famous Easter eggs that Faberge made for the Tsars of Russia.
Lapis Lazuli Easter Egg
Faberge egg for the Tzarina. Made from Gold, enamel, lapis lazuli, pearls, diamonds, rubies. In the Cleveland Museum collection.
Opens to Reveal Enameled Yellow Yolk
Realistic yellow enamel yolk that opens to reveal a diamond crown. Inside the crown is a Ruby.
Lapis Scarab Bracelet worn by Tutankhamun
The scarab beetle Khopri was a symbol of the rising sun and the resurrection of the dead. They were always included in the burial to aid the journey into the afterlife.
This scarab bracelet is made of gold, lapis-lazuli, carnelian, turquoise and other semi-precious stones. The small circumference of this bracelet suggests that it was made for Tutankhamun when he was a child. Found in the Valley of the Kings, by Howard Carter. Now in the Egyptian Museum, Cairo.
Pectoral with Lapis Lazuli Scarab
Lapis beetle scarab pushes a gold disc between two uraei, each wearing the crown of upper Egypt. Decorated with Lotus flowers. Sesonchis II, Egyptian Museum, Cairo.
Pectoral with Lapis Lazuli Scarab
Lapis beetle scarab on a gold pectoral for Sesonchis II, British Museum, UK.
Lapis and Gold Bracelet with Eye of Horus
Belonged to Sesonchis I, and is 3000 years old. Egyptian Museum, Cairo.
Ancient Egyptian Pectoral in Lapis and Gold
Lapis Lazuli and gold, pectoral from the tomb of Sesonchis II. Decorated with Lotus flowers. Sesonchis II, Egyptian Museum, Cairo.
Hathor Amulet in lapis Lazuli
From Ancient Egypt, an amulet with the image of Hathor. Carved from Afghanistan lapis lazuli and inlaid with gold.
Hathor was a major goddess in ancient Egyptian religion who played a wide variety of roles and is considered to be one of Egypt’s greatest goddesses.
Hathor was often depicted as a cow, symbolizing her maternal and celestial aspect, although her most common form was a woman wearing a headdress of cow horns and a sun disk.
Ancient Egyptian Four Headed Ram in Lapis Lazuli
Egyptian Lapis Lazuli Amulet of Banebdjedet, Late Period, 664-332 BC.
Sold for £ 3,750 (CA$ 6,353) inc. premium in 2016.
Provenance:
The Harer Family Trust Collection, acquired 28 February 2011.
Joel Malter Collection, Los Angeles, acquired in the 1960s and 1970s.
Four headed Ram in Lapis Lazuli
Egyptian Lapis Lazuli Amulet of Banebdjedet, Late Period, 664-332 BC
The four-headed ram deity represents the four forms of Banebdjedet of Mendes
Lapis was the stone of Laz, the Babylonian goddess of love and was widely believed to make you lucky in love. The gemstone also represents Ishtar the Sumerian goddess of battle and love. Lapis was the most highly prized gemstone to the Ancient Egyptians, the deep celestial blue symbolized royalty, honor, the gods and power. Lapis lazuli represents a universal symbol of truth. Lapis lazuli was valuable to the ancient Egyptians as an image of the heavens. Its dark-blue coloration was the indigo of the night sky while the white-gold flecks of pyrite represented the imperishable stars. Lapis was often used to represent the sky godess Neut and her daughter Isis, goddess of heaven.
Lapis Lazuli Cylindrical Seal
Mesopotamian Cylindrical seal in Lapis Lazuli showing all sides and the top.
Lapis Lazuli Cylindrical Seal
Mesopotamian Cylindrical seal in Lapis Lazuli with rolled out impression onto wet clay
How to Cut and Polish Lapis Lazuli
Lapis Lazuli is a difficult stone to work with for the lapidary and gem carver. The stone is soft, but as it is technically a rock made from a combination of materials, it often develops an orange peel surface. This is known as undercutting and happens because the hard and soft materials polish at different rates. Soaking Lapis in distilled water can help to prevent oil or compounds penetrating any voids or fractures. There is good info from other gemstone cutters on the Orchid forums
Safety
Safety is very important as Lapis gives off a toxic dust when cut. This contains sulphur and copper and should not be inhaled. Always cut Lapis with water to keep the dust from forming. If using carving points charged with Diamond, the wax, silicone or oil lubricant will keep the dust away.
Cutting
Lapis cuts quickly as it is a soft material. The diamond saw is very fast, when slabbing or trimming. Keep the stone wet with either an oil based or water based coolant.
Grinding
Grinding can be done with a less agressive wheel than for Quartz or Agate. Use a 220 grit instead of 100 grit for material removal, 320 - 400 grit for shaping and 600 - 1200 grit for final smoothing. Nova wheels are good for this as they cushion the stone.
Sanding
Curved surfaces such as cabochons can be sanded with 600, 1200, 3000 grit, applied to belts or pads. Keep the stone wet, in motion with a light touch to avoid flats or a build up of heat.
Polishing Cabochons
Polish with Linde A or Chromium Oxide on a hard Felt or hard Leather wheel. This gives a slick flow polish with minimal undercutting. Other gem cutters have used hardwood or charging polishing pads with diamond paste, 8000, 14000, 50k and 100k. However I have found that the soft pads and the numerous steps encourage undercutting.
Cut by Doug Menaude - Bespoke Gems
Flat Stones and Faceting lapis
Finishing flat Lapis is much more difficult. I have tried many combinations of laps and grit. Sanding works well with 1200 and 3000 on Copper or Tin.
Polishing Flats and Facets
For Diamond I pre-polish with 8000 on a tin lap then polish with 50K on a tin lap. However, Linde A works very well on a tin lap and is now my favorite method. You can get a glossy and flat surface with no undercutting.
This faceted Lapis is by Doug Menaude who will cut gemstones to order. Visit his website at Bespoke Gems
Problems and Issues
If the stone gets too hot, particles of pyrites or quartz can be ripped out of the stone and cause a deep scratch as they are dragged over the surface. Heat generated by running dry and too much pressure can also cause cracks and fractures.
Howlite Dyed to Imitate Lapis
While the color is convincing, note that there are no golden iron pyrites in the stone
Real Lapis v Synthetic Lapis
The synthetic Lapis has an unusual even, intense color. Only the most expensive, gem quality Afghan stones have this color and saturation. With a lens, you can see that the iron pyrites are not naturally formed or distributed throughout the material.
Sodalite used to Imitate Lapis
Note that there are no golden iron pyrites in the stone
Lapis Lazuli Cameo Necklace
Lapis Lazuli Necklace from the Jean-Francois Fichot Collection
Designer Jewel from 1960
A Mondrian-influenced example of abstract art jewelry. Sculpted in rich and substantial 18 karat yellow gold, inlaid with Lapis Lazuli and sparkling with .80 carat of bright-white diamonds.
Faberge Easter Egg in Lapis
Lapis lazuli Hen Faberge Egg (1886) given to Alexander III to Czarina Maria Fyodorovna
Titian 'Bacchus and Adrienne' from 1521.
Michelangelo Fresco in the Sistine Chapel, 1512
Lapis Lazuli has been used to make blue pigment for centuries. Ground Lapis Lazuli has been used to dye cloth and for art. There are examples from Bhuddist monks from the 4th century.
Painters of the Renaissance such as Cellini, Michelangelo and of course Titian used ground Lapis pigment for their paintings.
Titian, is regarded as one of the finest portrait artists. His signature effect was to use Ultramarine blue that he created by grinding Lapis and mixing it with Linseed Oil.
This is actually known as Titian blue by some and can be seen on his painting of 'Bacchus and Adrienne' from 1521. I saw this in the National Gallery in London. While the other oil paint has faded the blue of the robes and the background is still as intense now as when first painted 500 years ago.
Michelangelo used Lapis Lazuli powder to pigment tempura paints for the blues in his fresco in the Sistine chapel.
The girl with the pearl earring by Vermeer uses lapis pigment for her headscarf. This is a brilliant blue, especially as it is 400 years old.
An excellent resource is this page on how to make pigment and paint from lapis lazuli by Silwa of Swaneholm. The most informative and well researched article on Lapis Lazuli to make Ultramarine blue pigment is by David Marguiles.
The process involves crushing the Lapis, then using various processes and agents to remove the impurities. The best quality Lapis gives a more intense final result than when cheaper material is used. The washed and clean powder is is used to pigment tempra paint for frescos or can be mixed with linseed oil to make an oil paint.
You can buy real lapis lazuli pigment from Lapis Lazuli World, listed at $1300 per Kilogram ( 2.2 lbs ).
Book a Design Consultation for Your Custom Jewel. Upload Your Photos To Gareth Eckley
About the Author Gareth Eckley
Award-Winning Jewelry Designer and Gemstone Carver
Gareth David Eckley has won many accolades for my custom Jewelry design and gemstone carving. These include major national awards from prestigious national organizations.
De Beers Diamonds Today Award for jewelry design, Goldsmiths Craft Council, Craftsman of the year competition - 7 awards, The Platinum Guild Award for excellence in Platinum design and manufacture- 3 awards.
His award-winning work has been exhibited at Goldsmiths Hall, the British Design Centre, De Beers, The Victoria & Albert Museum, the Olympia in London and at the Basle fair in Switzerland.
An International reputation for Excellence
Each portrait is hand-carved from your photos by Gareth. Widely regarded as the finest portrait cameo artist in North America. Gareth also designs and makes the exquisite settings for every custom jewel.
Gareth has created custom jewels for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, The Prime Minister of Canada, a Crown Prince from the United Arab Emirates, a United States Senator, Lady Diana Gibson-Watt, Sir Anthony Hopkins, Lady Janice Mitchell and other clients throughout the World.
A life devoted to creating beautiful jewelry
For the last 30 years Gareth has been gemstone carving, hand engraving and carving family crests in gold and stone, gold-smithing and creating custom jewelry designs. He carved his first portrait cameo in 1997.
Gareth is one of a very select group of gemstone portrait artists. Great skill, artistry and experience is needed to be able to create accurate portraits.
He is very passionate about his art and loves to travel to meet his clients whenever possible. He has been creating work for over 28 years. Some of his clients have been collecting his work for over 20 years.
Gareth feels strongly that for a cameo portrait to work he must feel that he "knows" the subject. It is very important to know the persons name and their nature so that he can enthuse the portrait carving with their spirit.
Professional Training and Expertise
Education
Medway College of Art & Design, United Kingdom, 1980-1984. Four year Degree covering all aspects of Jewellery, Silversmithing, Hand Engraving, Jewellery casting, Jewellery design, Wax carving, goldsmithing, and gemmology.
FGA: Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. 1979-1980.
Work Experience
1982-1984 George Lukes Engravers Ltd, London, England. Worked as a hand engraver with the top engraver in the UK at the time.
1984-1987 Christopher Wharton Designer Jewellers Ltd, London, England. Worked as a Goldsmith, engraver and Diamond setter.
1987-1991 Gareth Eckley Designer Jewellers, Wales, UK. Self employed as a Jewellery designer, Goldsmith, hand engraver, diamond setter, jewellery valuation, gem cutting, family crest carving.
1991-1993 Customgold Jewelers, Vancouver, Canada. Employed as a Goldsmith, hand engraver, diamond setter, wax carver, jewelry polisher.
1993-2019 Gareth Eckley - Portrait Cameos. Self employed as a gemstone carver, cameo artist, portrait artist, Jewelry designer, Goldsmith, hand engraver, diamond setter, jewellery valuation, gem cutting, family crest carving.
G.I.A Guide to Lapis Lazuli
A guide to the mineralogy and value of Lapis Lazuli from the Gemological Association of America.
I.G.S Guide to Lapis Lazuli Symbolism
International Gem Society guide to Symbolism of Lapis Lazuli
Tutenkamun's Gold Mask
Lapis was highly prized in Ancient Egypt and was used by the Pharaohs to aid in the afterlife.
Making Ultramarine Blue from Lapis
Superb guide to how Lapis is ground to make pigment for paint or dyes for cloth
Bio for Gareth Eckley
More about Gareth Eckley. The jeweler, gemstone portrait artist, and designer.